This section is divided into three subcategories ( Kit, Tools and Methods ) to acclimate you to the building process and get you started.This is not a step-by-step guide. Refer to our Modifications section for tips on assembling specific parts.

KIT - The "GT" or "FX" white armor kit is a wonderful thing. This is the type of armor worn by most of the troopers out there. While it isn't entirely "screen accurate," it comes close enough for most people, and the average public is completely wowed by it. If you are looking for more accurate armor, you seek the TE or GF kit (remember that more accurate means more expensive). One of the major differences of the FX kit is the oversized helmet, but this turns out to be a blessing in disguise when it's time to load up your bucket with all those nifty electronics. Check out this customized bucket from TK7100!

The construction basics are about the same no matter which kit you acquire. Click here to see an image of all of the components that come with the FX kit. With the exception of the leather holster, all of the items listed in our Accessories section will need to be purchased separately. Detailed below are a number of tools and other materials you may also need.

When acquiring your armor (and fulfilling your life-long dream of becoming a Stormtrooper), keep in mind that this is a kit—not an off-the-shelf, ready-to-wear costume. You will spend weeks (if not months) cutting, sanding, drilling, gluing and riveting your project. Be prepared to forego family get-togethers, your favorite television shows and the occassional meal. White armor is a demanding mistress—and a rather expensive one to boot.

Like the instruction manual repeatedly suggests, slow down and take your time. You will make mistakes, but the slower you go, the less mistakes you'll make. Check out this nasty X-acto gouge I created in my haste while scoring the lower back piece.

Luckily, this scar is covered by the belt.

Despite the challenges, I was very satisfied with the quality, detail, and craftsmanship of my armor kit—doubly so when I put it on for the first time. Check out my photos in the Gallery section...you can't tell, but I'm smiling like a madman under that helmet. E-mail me if you need help finding armor.

TOOLS - This is a list of tools you may need to complete your armor. Perhaps one of the most overlooked "tools" you'll need is a functional, well-ventilated workspace. Clean out the garage or kick out that free-loading roommate, because you'll need a lot of space to lay everything out as you build your armor. Multiple electrical outlets are recommended to avoid plugging and unplugging tools. Exactly what modifications you want to make will determine which tools you'll need. Keep your receipts and you should be able to return what you don't use. One more thing: Look for members of your local Garrison who are willing to help you. An extra set of hands and some veteran trooper know-how will be of considerable value. Okay, click here for your handy-dandy printable shopping list.

METHODS - Here we describe the various methods that can be used to assemble your armor. These methods include velcro, buttons/snaps, hot glue, ABS cement, Plastic Welder, and rivets.


Velcro - Heed the warnings of other armor-builders! Don't use the white velcro that comes with the kit! While it's useful for test-fitting parts, the kit-supplied velcro will not hold your armor together for any length of time. (Click here for a comparison of the kit velcro and the industrial strength velcro). Personally, I like the convenience of velcro for certain parts of the armor, so I use Industrial Strength Velcro. It's a whole lot stronger than the stuff that comes with the kit, and when applied to the armor with a little ABS cement, it's very reliable (I've used it for over a year with no problems whatsoever). Note that the hook part of the velcro (the rough plastic side) should always be applied so that it faces AWAY from your body. If applied to the armor facing TOWARD your body, it will eventually shred holes in your bodysuit. This Industrial Strength Velcro is also rather expensive ($30 for a box), so I recommend splitting the cost with another trooper or two.

Buttons/Snaps - I haven't experimented with this yet, but I hear it's a nice mod. I'll post more here if I decide to make use of snaps.

Hot glue - Make sure you get a regular size glue gun as the mini glue guns don't hold enough glue at one time. Also, make sure your gun is a HIGH temperature gun so that the glue is nice and runny when you use it. Hot glue is recommended for certain parts of the helmet, but it not recommended for high-stress applications such as holding the thigh pieces together or gluing the dome onto the helmet—you'll want to use ABS cement or Plastic Welder for that.

ABS CementABS cement - The ABS cement that comes with the kit is very strong and easy to use, but it takes about 24 hours to cure. I don't know about you, but I wanted to wear my armor the day I got it. You may want to consider the fast-curing Plastic Welder.

Plastic Welder - My fellow trooper Clutch recommended this 2-part epoxy as an alternative to the ABS cement. There are a lot of variations of epoxy out there, but this is a very specific brand called "Plastic Welder" by Devcon. Check out the photo here. The only place I know of that carries it for sure is Wal-Mart. Several of us in the Florida Garrison have used it without any problems whatsoever. It dries in 15 minutes and will dramatically speed up your armor building. There are a few downsides: it's a little expensive (you'll need about 6 tubes which may cost around $20 total), it dries to a cream color which can be visible on your white armor if you're not careful, and you have to mix it per use from the 2-part plunger-type dispenser. Despite these drawbacks, I still recommend it! Note that Plastic Welder is for plastic and will not secure metal pieces.

Rivets - While Plastic Welder is extremely strong, there's some things you just don't want to leave to chance. This is where rivets come in. Handheld rivet guns are relatively inexpensive ($10) and when used in combination with Plastic Welder, you'll have no worries. It's probably a good idea to use thin washers on the back side of your rivets to prevent them from pulling through the ABS plastic (although I haven't had that problem yet). I have a total of 8 rivets in my whole suit, so I would recommend borrowing the rivet gun instead of buying one!